“There is something in me that makes me disinterested in low stakes game. What really matters is the big game. It lights my fire.”

The statement by Jerzy Kukuczka aptly proves why he became a person of greatest reputation in Himalayan mountaineering, the conqueror of the ‘Crown of the Earth’, the iconic symbol of climbing sports and the inspiration for generations to come.

Jerzy Kukuczka was born on 24 March 1948 in Katowice, the town he was always firmly associated with. He spent considerable time in Istebna, his parents’ native village, but it was the Tatra Mountains, the Alps and the Himalayas, where he stayed most of the time. His real passion and his true, vertical world was there.

He admitted that although he had been practising weightlifting in his secondary school, the first time he touched the rock was the moment that utterly changed his life. 

He quickly overcame the stages of his climbing career and fluently passed from Tatra mountaineering and alpinism to his first expedition in the highest mountains in the world, within less than 10 years.              

The first Himalaya expedition wasn’t successful but Jerzy Kukuczka would never give up. He ignored the opinions that his body limitations exclude him from high altitude climbing, and soon ascended fourteen eight-thousanders, mostly setting up new routes, using new ways, climbing without oxygen supply or performing winter ascents. 

“I don’t enjoy rushing along normal high altitude routes just for ticking them off. Instead, I’m fascinated with the idea of fourteen new routes to ascend fourteen eight-thousanders. I’m passionately putting it in practice climbing a new route, or doing a winter ascent to be the first there. It’s a game worth playing. A really great game.”

He conquered the ‘Crown of the Himalayas’, climbing two eight-thousanders during one winter season, and six of them in less than two years. He was the first man ever on top of three eight-thousanders, ascending in harsh, wintry conditions. He set up eleven new ascent routes to the eight-thousanders.

He was awarded Silver Olympic Medal for his incredible sport achievements. There are numerous schools and institutions named after him, with, first of all, Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education in Katowice.

His steadfastness, prowess and genuine sport personality make him a trustworthy symbol of Himalayan mountaineering, climbing and sports.

He died on the wall of Lhotse at 8300m, on 24 October 1989. His body was never found.

“I have never been able to accept going home empty-handed. I’ve always tried again. Sometimes, I did it against all reasons, but in accordance with my inner conviction.”